All That Glitters: Goldfinger’s Golden Age of Lager

Stepping into Goldfinger’s airy Downers Grove taproom, I’m immediately struck by how unapologetically traditional it feels. Tall ceilings, warm wood tables, and soft, circular chandeliers give the space a calm, very intentional feel about it, polished yet unpretentious if you will. The matte gray walls are dotted with framed illustrations that give a subtle nod to brewing heritage without being in your face. Peering through the glass, the production floor hums quietly, a row of gleaming stainless tanks and brass-trimmed pipes stretching toward a raised platform, where the real work unfolds. It’s industrial, but not cold. The air is faintly sweet with malt, reminiscent of a Bavarian bierhall.

I walk to the front counter, met with only a handful of options (just how I like it). The Grodziskie is calling my name. It pours a pale, almost ghostly straw color, topped by a tall, rocky collar of white foam that'll have you busting out your favorite Wicked classic... because it seems to be defying gravity.

The first sip is a masterclass in balance. A whisper of soft, clean oak smoke gives way to a champagne-like effervescence and a bright, almost lemon-zest crispness that makes the 3.2% ABV seem impossibly refreshing. Historically known as “Polish Champagne,” Grodziskie is an obscure style, made using 100% oak-smoked wheat malt, that very few modern breweries even attempt, let alone pull off this well. But here it was, in all it's glory. This restrained, old-school style proves that not every great beer needs a plethora of hops or pastry-level sweetness to hold its own. In fact, Goldfinger feels very much of-the-moment, a flagship of a broader lager renaissance quietly stirring in the Midwest and beyond.

Goldfinger opened in 2020, and while it may be young, it has the soul of a much older brewery. The name itself is a tribute to founder Tom Beckmann’s family history, his great-grandfather was a brewer in Poland, and the brewery aims to honor that legacy with beers that are faithful to Old World technique. But Goldfinger doesn’t just replicate history for nostalgia’s sake, rather brewing with reverence for detail. From decoction mashing to extended lagering times, their process embraces the long road, with zero shortcuts. A level of dedication championed in every pint shared throughout the taproom.

So, what exactly makes this place so revered? Beyond the foam and finesse, Goldfinger’s rise as one of the most sought after lager breweries in the nation is tied to something bigger. After years of enthusiasts sipping triple dry-hopped haze and thick smoothie concoction's, they are making a return to beer that tastes like… well, beer. This isn't just a nostalgic rejection of new; it's a search for subtlety in a world of sensory overload. The craft beer scene spent a decade proving just how extreme beer could be. Now, drinkers are rediscovering the virtue of quiet. They are seeking nuance, and perhaps most importantly, drinkability.

So when you find that airy taproom, tucked just off Rogers Street in downtown Downers Grove, stop in and say hi to Tom and his crew. What you’ll quickly realize is that you’ve stumbled upon so much more than just the perfect pint; you’ve found a space built for the community to slow down and connect over the deep and satisfying love of lager.